Can using too much retinol actually damage your skin?

Retinol can indeed cause irritation when used in too high an amount or on sensitive skin. This is a well-recognised side-effect profile: redness, flaking and a burning sensation are regularly reported by people who apply retinol to their skin.

Laboratory research makes it clear why: pure retinol at higher concentrations damages cells considerably. In that research, at such a concentration more than half of the test cells showed damage. That is an alarming figure, but it reflects a laboratory condition, not real-life skin. Nevertheless, it confirms that the substance is biologically active and potentially irritating.

At the same time, retinol is actually beneficial for the skin: it helps skin cells renew themselves and supports the integrity of the skin barrier. It is therefore not the case that retinol is simply 'bad' for the skin. The damage occurs when the dose or frequency is too high, or when the skin has not yet had time to adjust to it.

Those who experience side effects from retinol have an alternative: bakuchiol, a plant-based ingredient with no chemical similarity to retinol. After twelve weeks of twice-daily use, one small study observed comparable improvements in wrinkles, pigmentation and firmness, without the irritation that retinol normally causes. One study is too little for firm conclusions, but bakuchiol is worth considering if your skin responds poorly to retinol.