Does retinol help against wrinkles?

Topical retinol, a form of vitamin A applied to the skin, demonstrably reduces fine lines and wrinkles and improves skin texture. It also increases the thickness of both the outer and deeper layers of the skin. Most studies have been conducted in people with sun-damaged skin, also known as photoaging. For wrinkles caused purely by chronological aging without sun damage, the research is therefore somewhat less extensive.

Retinol is not the most potent agent in its class. Tretinoin, also a retinoid but available by prescription only, is considered the clinical gold standard for topical skin rejuvenation. It is better studied and more potent, but also causes more side effects. Retinol is therefore a less potent but freely available alternative, with a more favorable side-effect profile as a trade-off.

A well-known drawback of retinol is skin irritation: burning, flaking, and sometimes dermatitis are common side effects. Although retinol is less irritating than tretinoin and tazarotene, these complaints can still lead people to discontinue use. Gradually building up the concentration can help with this.

For people with sensitive skin or low tolerance for retinol, bakuchiol offers an alternative. This plant-derived ingredient works through mechanisms in the skin similar to those of retinol. In a randomized double-blind study with 44 participants over 12 weeks, both bakuchiol (0.5%, twice daily) and retinol (0.5%, once daily) significantly reduced wrinkle surface area, with no statistically significant difference in effectiveness. Retinol users in that study experienced more flaking and burning. One case of contact dermatitis with bakuchiol has been reported, and further research is needed to properly confirm the effects.