What is the best-proven remedy for wrinkles: retinol or vitamin C?
Tretinoin (prescription vitamin A) has the best evidence against sun-related wrinkles; a cream containing 5% vitamin C showed positive results after 6 months in one study, but has been far less studied. If you have sensitive skin or no prescription, over-the-counter retinol or vitamin C are realistic alternatives.
Tretinoin, the prescription form of vitamin A, has by far the strongest evidence for wrinkles caused by sun damage. Eight studies compared tretinoin with a placebo and consistently showed improvement; at 0.05% tretinoin, the likelihood of a visible result was nearly twice as high as with the placebo. If you want the best-proven approach, this is your choice, but you will need a prescription.
The downside is irritation: redness, flaking and a burning sensation are common, and more so at higher concentrations. Some people stop treatment early because of this. Over-the-counter retinol, also a form of vitamin A but weaker, likewise shows improvement and causes less irritation, although it has been studied less extensively than tretinoin.
If you want to try topical vitamin C: choose a cream or serum containing 5% ascorbic acid, which is the concentration used in the only double-blind study. Apply it once to twice daily and allow at least 12 weeks, preferably 6 months. On the label, look for '5% ascorbic acid' or '5% L-ascorbic acid'; the formulation (cream or serum) makes no difference to the effect. In that study, skin texture and elastic tissue improved visibly, with hardly any side effects. That is a positive signal, but it rests on a single small study, making the evidence considerably thinner than for tretinoin.
There are no direct comparison studies between vitamin C and tretinoin, so a fair head-to-head verdict is not possible. There are also preliminary indications that combinations of vitamins A, C, E and B3 may enhance each other's effects, but this is not yet sufficiently substantiated for firm recommendations. If you have sensitive skin or no prescription, over-the-counter retinol or a vitamin C serum is a realistic alternative, though less well studied.
The evidence for tretinoin rests on eight controlled studies from which a Cochrane review pooled data. For vitamin C there is only one small double-blind study, which makes the evidence considerably thinner. The researchers in the Cochrane review noted that the evidence for vitamin C is limited. For over-the-counter retinol the evidence base is intermediate: positive, but based on fewer studies than for tretinoin.
Does retinol help against wrinkles?
Retinol demonstrably works against wrinkles and improves skin texture, although tretinoin is more powerful for those who can or want to obtain a prescription; people troubled by irritation may consider bakuchiol as an equally effective alternative based on one small study.
Does a vitamin C serum help against pigmentation spots and ageing?
Vitamin C serums probably reduce pigmentation spots and early signs of ageing, but the studies are too small or lack control groups for firm conclusions. A combination serum with niacinamide or tranexamic acid has the best support, always supplemented with daily sun protection.
Does microneedling work for wrinkles and scars?
Microneedling demonstrably works for wrinkles and acne scars, with radiofrequency microneedling being the variant with the strongest evidence base. Combining it with PRP can enhance results, but make sure you are well informed about side effects and choose an experienced practitioner.
Does taking collagen really work against wrinkles?
Collagen supplements show positive effects on wrinkles and skin hydration in many studies, though most of those studies were funded by the industry.
Does liposomal vitamin C work better than regular vitamin C?
Liposomal vitamin C reaches higher blood levels than regular vitamin C, but whether that translates into real health benefits has not been proven. The higher price cannot yet be justified for most people.
Does vitamin C actually help against a cold?
Taking vitamin C daily does not protect most people against colds, but does make a cold somewhat shorter and milder. Intensive athletes benefit more. Anyone who really wants an effect during a cold would do better to look at zinc.