What is the best-proven remedy for wrinkles: retinol or vitamin C?

Retinol wins on the evidence. A large systematic review of 32 studies involving 1,236 patients, of which 20 were randomised trials, awards both retinol and vitamin C the highest recommendation grade for anti-ageing¹. However, the results for retinol are considerably more concrete: multiple studies show clear wrinkle reduction after 12 weeks of use, along with a demonstrated boost in collagen production^2,3. Vitamin C receives the same recommendation grade, but how large its effect on wrinkles actually is remains far vaguer in the literature.

If you want the strongest proven result, prescription tretinoin is the answer. That is the most potent retinoid and works through the same mechanism as retinol, but produces greater changes in skin structure and collagen production^4,5. Over-the-counter retinol is a weaker but more accessible version of the same principle.

Do be aware of irritation. Users of retinol experience significantly more flaking and a burning sensation than with some alternatives⁶. Start with a low concentration and build up slowly. This reduces the chance of irritation and makes it easier to stay consistent.

A head-to-head comparison between retinol and vitamin C in a single randomised study does not yet exist. Based on what is available, retinol has the broader and more concrete body of evidence. Vitamin C is a proven skin antioxidant with the same recommendation grade, but the evidence base specifically for wrinkles is thinner.