Do peptides in skincare actually do anything?
Studies in people show measurable improvements in wrinkles, elasticity and hydration, both through creams and oral supplements. Part of the research has been funded by manufacturers, which means independent confirmation remains limited.
Peptides applied to the skin have received the most attention for treating sun-damaged skin. A review combining many cosmetic ingredients concluded that peptides came out on top, with the most studies at the highest level of evidence for cosmetics. A separate study in people tested a specific peptide (0.002%) twice a day for eight weeks: it reduced the number, size and roughness of crow's feet and forehead wrinkles more effectively than retinol, and the benefit grew the longer it was used. That study was carried out by researchers connected to the manufacturer, which is worth bearing in mind.
Oral collagen peptides have been examined in several studies in people that included a placebo group. After eight weeks at 1,650 mg per day, researchers saw improvements in wrinkle depth, elasticity, hydration, pore size and sebum production. At 5,000 mg per day over twelve weeks, skin moisture, firmness and skin structure all increased, and those effects persisted four weeks after stopping. Both studies were partly funded or carried out by the manufacturer of the product being tested. A smaller study in people with moderate atopic dermatitis found that oral collagen peptide reduced the need for corticosteroid use and relieved itching sooner; here too, one of the authors is linked to patents on the product.
After a laser skin treatment, a topical peptide mixture was shown to speed up recovery and improve anti-ageing measures more than the standard cream, though it was not a complete replacement. This hints that peptides may also work as a complement to procedures.
Set against those positive findings is an earlier review that concluded most studies in this field were poorly designed: only six of fifteen studies found included a placebo group, and only five were conducted in a way where neither participants nor researchers knew who received the active treatment. That applies mainly to the older research on peptides applied to the skin; more recent studies in people are generally better designed. A third review highlights that how peptides in skincare products work, and their safety over time, still need to be investigated more thoroughly.
This answer draws on three reviews of existing studies and five studies in people. The positive effects come largely from studies that included a placebo group and were conducted so that neither participants nor researchers knew who received the active treatment, but in three of those five studies the researchers were employed by or connected to the manufacturer of the product being tested. The earlier review rated the overall quality of research methods in this field as low. The more recent studies in people are of better quality, but the commercial involvement is an interpretive risk the reader should take into account.
Does resveratrol in skin cream actually do anything?
Resveratrol has a demonstrated biological effect, but in ordinary creams the compound breaks down quickly, leaving little active ingredient by the time you apply it. Look for products with encapsulated formulations, as these handle the stability problem more effectively.
Do copper peptides (GHK-Cu) work in skincare?
GHK-Cu shows positive effects on collagen in the lab, but clinical evidence in humans is lacking. Do not expect too much from it in an ordinary daily moisturiser, especially while the question of skin penetration remains unresolved.
What really helps against skin ageing?
Using sunscreen every day is the best-supported way to slow skin ageing, complemented by not smoking, drinking alcohol in moderation and getting enough sleep. Cosmetic options such as thread lifts and honey in creams have a weaker or not yet sufficiently proven basis and call for a careful weighing of the risks.
Do exosomes in skincare really work?
There are preliminary indications that exosomes may do something for the skin, but the clinical evidence is very thin: one small study without a control group and otherwise mainly animal research. Do not buy into the hype just yet, but keep an eye on the research over the coming years.
Does a vampire facial (PRP) work against skin ageing?
PRP injections produce a modest, probably real improvement in skin texture and elasticity, but do not work for everything (hydration and pigmentation spots respond barely at all). If you want to try it, choose a clinic that gives clear information about the protocol it uses.
Do polynucleotide or salmon DNA facial treatments actually work?
There are cautious indications that polynucleotide injections may improve the skin around the eyes, but well-controlled evidence is still lacking. If you are considering the treatment, ask your practitioner specifically about the supporting evidence and remain critical of commercial interests.