Do exosomes in skincare really work?

One small human study showed measurable improvements after six weeks of using a platelet-derived exosome serum: less redness, fewer wrinkles, more even pigmentation, and a better complexion. However, that study had no control group and was not randomised, so a placebo effect cannot be ruled out. This is the only direct clinical evidence for exosomes in face creams or serums.

In animal research and cell studies the picture looks more promising. Stem-cell exosomes showed effects in mouse studies involving UV damage, eczema, and skin ageing. A combination of stem-cell exosomes with the green tea compound EGCG, delivered via microneedles, significantly reduced UV damage in mice. And exosomes loaded with NMN (a compound that supports cellular energy metabolism) slowed skin ageing in mice and restored the functioning of cellular mitochondria. None of these findings have yet been confirmed in humans.

For difficult-to-heal wounds, such as those associated with diabetes, more developed research models already exist. Specially engineered exosomes attached to a wound dressing promoted wound healing in mice more effectively than either component on its own. This is, however, a medical application, not ordinary skincare.

A structural problem is that there is no standard for how exosomes are produced and tested. This makes it difficult to compare studies with one another and means that consistent performance from product to product is not guaranteed. Reviews of the field acknowledge that the safety profile of exosomes appears favourable, but that manufacturing challenges and regulatory hurdles currently stand in the way of widespread use. Robust clinical trials are largely absent.