Is mineral sunscreen better for your skin than chemical sunscreen?

Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, the active ingredients in mineral sunscreen, provide broad-spectrum UV protection and have a favourable safety profile. In the literature they are described as a well-functioning alternative, including for people with sensitive skin or those who prefer to avoid chemical filters.

Chemical filters demonstrably penetrate the living upper layers of the skin, with oxybenzone reaching the deepest. Yet the measured concentrations in skin cells are at least five times below the threshold at which damage occurs in laboratory research. Under normal conditions of use, no significant cell damage was found. That does not dismiss concerns about environmental effects: those are real and play a role in the choices many people make.

New research shows that long-wave UVA and visible light contribute to pigmentation spots, redness and skin ageing. Ordinary sunscreens do not always offer sufficient protection against these. Tinted mineral sunscreen with a broad colour range appears to be able to close this gap, but the research here is still limited and preliminary.

The added benefits of extra ingredients such as antioxidants and enzymes that help repair DNA damage were examined in one small study without a comparison group. In that study, 81% of participants reported improvement in visible signs of ageing after twelve weeks. Without a placebo arm, caution is warranted when interpreting these results.

A consensus panel of dermatologists states that there is no universal winner. Which type of sunscreen suits you best depends on your skin type, any concerns such as pigmentation spots or acne, and personal preference. Nanoparticles in mineral formulas still raise questions; the literature does not give a clear-cut answer on this.