Which skincare actually works after forty?
A number of skincare ingredients have a proven effect after forty: tretinoin (on prescription) is the best-supported option, retinol and bakuchiol are accessible alternatives, and oral collagen peptides demonstrably improve skin elasticity.
Tretinoin (prescription-strength vitamin A acid) is the most thoroughly researched ingredient for skin ageing. It demonstrably reduces wrinkles and improves skin texture. The downside: many people experience burning, flaking or skin irritation. If you start using it, do so gradually and preferably in consultation with a dermatologist.
Retinol, the over-the-counter form of vitamin A, has a measurable effect on facial wrinkles after 12 weeks of use. It increases the thickness of the upper skin layer and stimulates collagen production. The effect is slightly smaller than with tretinoin, but the risk of irritation is also smaller. Bakuchiol, a plant-based alternative, shows a comparable effect to 0.5% retinol on wrinkles and pigmentation spots after 12 weeks, but with significantly fewer side effects such as flaking and stinging. If you tolerate retinol poorly, bakuchiol is a serious alternative.
Vitamin C, vitamin E and niacinamide (vitamin B3) act as antioxidants and suppress inflammation in the skin. They help with photoageing and pigmentation problems. The formulation matters greatly; in the wrong composition they are barely effective. Combinations appear to work better than these substances used individually.
Oral collagen peptides show positive results in multiple placebo-controlled studies. A daily dose of 2.5 grams measurably improved skin elasticity after 8 weeks compared with placebo, and this effect persisted for another 4 weeks after stopping. After 4 to 8 weeks, collagen density in the skin also increased. No side effects were reported. Whether this difference is visible in the mirror is something the research does not address.
Hyaluronic acid in patch form temporarily improved hydration, but the effect lasts no more than 6 days. This evidence rests on just one small study, and the same caveat applies to gels and creams containing hyaluronic acid: the studies examined for those forms are not consistent.
The answer is based on multiple human studies, including placebo-controlled double-blind trials on collagen peptides and bakuchiol, and a broad review study on retinoids and antioxidants. The evidence for tretinoin and retinol is the strongest. For bakuchiol and oral collagen peptides the evidence is plausible but rests on fewer and smaller studies. The hyaluronic acid patch has barely been studied: one small study, with limited and short-lived effects.